!Xaus Lodge have received the coveted FTTSA certification. FTTSA (Fair Trade in Tourism in Southern Africa) is a quality management system that has assessed the Lodge's performance on the following factors, considered important to Fair Trade:

1. Legal and General Requirements 

2. Labour Standards 

3. Human Resource Practice 

4. Skills Development 

5. Employment Equity 

6. Ownership & Control 

7. Procurement 

8. Community / Social Investment 

9. Cultural Sensitivity 

10. Environmental Management & Conservation 

11. Health & Safety 

12. Quality & Reliability 

13. Workplace Culture 

14. HIV/AIDS & Related Issues

"The reason were have worked so hard to get this certification", says Glynn O'Leary, CEO of Transfrontier Parks Destinations, management operators are !Xaus Lodge, "is that it confirms that !Xaus Lodge, a community-owned destination, operates at the best practice levels expected of all commercial tourism destinations."

The FTTSA media release is here
The official announcement by !Xaus Lodge is here   

The economies of distance

The distance your bed linen treks to be laundered is part and parcel of bushveld logistics says Glynn O’Leary, CEO of Transfrontier Parks Destinations (TFPD), when talking about the peculiarities of a bushveld supply chain.

When she stepped onto the stage at Melrose Arch to accept !Xaus Lodge’s Imvelo Award for Responsible Tourism (Best Practice economic impact category for independent operations), Ellen Bok represented the community owners of this extraordinary success story.

Ellen is head Chef at !Xaus Lodge, which is a private concession in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Jointly owned by the ‡Khomani San and Mier communities, the Lodge is a positive example of what can be achieved in community-based tourism with public-private partnerships.  Since opening in 2007, and with just 24 beds, !Xaus Lodge has generated more than R5,1 million turnover in the Gordonia area.

Ellen’s story also reflects a life of taking the few opportunities available, and making the best of them through hard work and not giving up when times are tough. One of 9 children, she was brought up in nearby Rietfontein, and spent her younger years in Namibia, before returning to Rietfontein in 1993. For the next 14 years this mother of three scrapped an income from cooking take-aways and catered meals. The opportunity of formal employment at !Xaus Lodge was the first she had had in the area.

“Ellen’s employment was one of the many good things that came together when we opened !Xaus Lodge”, says Glynn O’Leary,  CEO of Transfrontier Parks Destinations, the commercial managers of the Lodge. “She’s a lady who understands that opportunity alone has little value unless you are prepared to work hard to make it develop into something bigger”.  A self-taught chef she has created a menu of “Kalahari Cuisine” that is a favourite with local and international Lodge guests.


 
‘!Xaus’ means ‘heart’ in the local nama language, and Ellen has a big one.  When asked what the best part of the trip to the awards was (which included her first ever plane trip and visit to Johannesburg, as well as four days mentorship in the Boulders Beach Restaurant) she said that “I am so happy because I see that those of us who believe and work hard to make a success, can teach others that there is always an opportunity.”

Based on various requests recently, here are comprehensive details on travelling by road from Phalaborwa and to Bilene, on the coast in Mozambique.

 Through Kruger National Park to Giriyondo Border Post:

·         Enter Kruger National Park at Phalaborwa gate.

·         Travel in the direction of Letaba Restcamp - Distance is 50km. Travelling time at Park speed limit is not less than 1 hour but provide for 1,5 to 2,0 hours to allow for game viewing as well.

·         At the intersection with the north/south tarred road in Kruger National Park, approx 1km before reaching Letaba Restcamp, turn left in the direction of Mopani Restcamp.

·         Travel north for 20,4km. Initially the road follows the Letaba river before the bridge crossing. Game viewing in this area is usually excellent. At the signposted intersection turn right onto a gravel road travelling in direction Makhadzi Picnic Site and Giriyondo Border Post for a further 24,5km (Total distance: Letaba-Giriyondo is 44,9km. Travelling time at Park speed limit is not less than 1 hour but provide for 1,5 to 2,0 hours to allow for game viewing as well.)

Border crossing:

·         Both the South African and Mozambiquan Border Posts are in the same modern thatched complex, divided simply by rolling gates.

·         Border authorities are friendly and helpful on both sides of the border

Entry into Mozambique:

·         Visitor visas can be purchased at Giriyondo and paid for in Rands (R564), US Dollars ($108) or Euros (E77).

·         Vehicle entry fee is R10

·         Entry into Parque Nacional do Limpopo (PNL) the Mozambique sector of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park:

·         One-off fee of R67 per person (for up to 30 day stay)

·         Vehicle entry fee is R67 per vehicle

Third Party Insurance:

·         At the time of writing it is not necessary to purchase Mozambiquan Third Party whilst travelling in PNL.

·         However on departure from the Park into the rest of Mozambique it is a requirement.

·         Third Party insurance can be purchased at the PNL exit gate at Massingir and costs approximately R150.

·         The insurance is valid for 30 days.

It is vitally important to remember:

·         Passports

·         Vehicle documents, which in the case of your clients will be a Letter of Authority from the Car Hire Company

·         the Border Post closes at 15h00 in winter months (1 April to 30 September) and 16h00 in summer months (1 October to 31 March). Do not arrive after the border closing time because you will be sent back!!)

Through Parque Nacional do Limpopo to Machampane Wilderness Camp and then to Massingir exit gate:

·         On completion of border and park formalities exit the Giriyondo Border Post complex on the only road. The road is a reasonable gravel one which travels in a southerly direction. Please drive carefully and watch out for the speed-humps, some of which are very high. The speed limit in PNL is 40km/hour.

To Machampane Camp:

·         At 27.8km look out for signpost to Machampane Camp at the Y-junction in the road.

·         The main road to Massingir bears left and the road to Machampane Wilderness Camp bears right on the less well travelled road. 

·         After 600 meters, turn right at the signposted turning to Machampane Camp.

·         After 2,0km you will pass an Elephant Release Boma on the right hand side

·         Beyond this and for the last 3,0km the road becomes more rugged.

·         Cross the Machampane River on the stone causeway very carefully and 200 meters later you will be in the Camp. There is no "ritz and glitz" entry gatepost, simply the unspoilt bush and tented camp.

·         The staff will have heard your vehicle and should be waiting to welcome you!!

·         Travelling time from Giriyondo to Machampane is approximately 1.0 to 1,5 hours depending on the wildlife you see.

From Machampane Camp: 

·         Travel back the 5,0km to the Giriyondo/Massingir main road.

·         Turn right and travel approximately 50km to the Massingir exit gate to PNL.

·         It is not always well signposted but if you always bear left and follow the well-travelled section you will arrive at Massingir gate safe and sound.

·         Approximately 25,0km from Machampane you will by-pass the village of Mavodzi on its northern side. In the early morning and late afternoon young herdsman drive the village cattle to water-holes along this road so please drive carefully. The young herdsmen are likely to ask/beg for sweets or money (in Shangaan) but please ignore these requests. There are a number of initiatives to support community needs and support of begging undermines these. 

·         The road becomes more corrugated and stony as you travel south in the park so please drive carefully

·         Travelling time from Machampane to Massingir exit gate is approximately 1,5 hours

·         Remember to purchase Mozambiquan Third Party Insurance here for approximately R150. The cover is valid for 30 days.

From Massingir exit gate of Parque Nacional do Limpopo to Bilene

Total distance and driving time:

·         The distance from Parque Nacional do Limpopo's Massingir Gate to Bilene is approximately 230km

·         The road is paved from the Massingir exit gate all the way to Bilene.

·         However, as a result of potholes on some of the stretches of road (some not too bad and others definitely to be avoided), villages en-route where the speed limit reduces to 60kms/hour and should be strictly adhered to, a fairly narrow road until you reach the EN1 (the main south to north road [following the line of the coast] from Maputo to Beira) and traffic, means that you are not likely to average much more than 70km/hour.

·         The journey time to Bilene is therefore around 3,5 to 4,0 hours

The route to Massingir Town: 

·         Leaving PNL through the Massingir exit gate the road travels for 5km along the top of the Massingir Dam wall which affords an amazing view of this very large dam. Whilst there are signs indicating that stopping is prohibited, many visitors do in fact stop for a few minutes to photograph the dam

·         The town of Massingir lies to the south of the road approximately 6km from the exit gate. Time permitting it is worth popping in to the village for a short visit to the market.

·         Fuel is available at a filling station on the eastern outskirts of Massingir. Payment for fuel must be made in cash which can be either Rands or Meticals

The route Massingir Town to Macia: 

·         From Massingir Town travel on the only paved road travelling in a south-easterly direction towards Chokwe.

·         Approximately 105km from Massingir is a T-intersection.

·         Turn right at this intersection in the direction of Chokwe (a left turn here would take you to the town of Macarretane and across the Limpopo River - if you cross the river you know you have gone in the wrong direction!!)

·         Approximately 25km from the T-junction you will enter the southern outskirts of the town of Chokwe.  It is a large sprawling town and the only major town in the area.

·         Simply follow the road, obeying the speed limits, and you will exit the urban limits travelling in the direction of the EN1 and Bilene.

·         This road travels through the flood-plain of the Limpopo river and you will see irrigation channels on either side of the road that carry water to the farming land.

·         Approximately 60km from Chokwe you will enter the town of Macia and shortly thereafter reach the T-junction with the EN1. On the opposite side of the road is an Engen Filling Station where fuel is available

The route Macia to Bilene:

·         At the T-junction with the EN1 in Macia turn right in the direction of Maputo.

·         Shortly after turning right keep a careful look-out for the sign indicating a left turn to Bilene.

·         Turn left to Bilene

·         If you pass a BP Filling Station located on the right hand side of the road then you have missed the turn-off to Bilene so do a U-turn and   

·         Approximately 33km from Macia you will enter the town of Bilene and shortly thereafter you will reach a T-junction overlooking the lagoon. You will have arrived safely in Bilene and then its just a question of finding your way to your booked accommodation which should be relatively easy.

Some safety tips

·         Make sure that your vehicle is equipped with reflective triangles and at least one yellow reflective jacket

·         Obey the speed limits especially through villages, the traffic officials are very active

·         Carry sufficient cash to pay a traffic fine should you inadvertently be caught speeding and request a receipt. Fines generally are the equivalent of approximately R300 and can be paid in Rands. It is worth having smaller denomination bills to deal with this eventuality e.g. R20's or R50's rather than R100's  

·         Watch out for potholes in the road especially on the stretch of road between Massingir and the Maccaretane/Chokwe T-junction

·         Ensure you reach your destination well before sunset, which in Mozambique is between 17h00 in winter and 18h30 in summer

·         People are generally very helpful but in the outlying areas do not speak any English. Should you for any reason need any assistance preferably, where possible, stop at a filling station or shop.

 

We are thrilled to report that !Xaus Lodge has been selected as a finalist in the "Best Practice: Economic Impact Category" for the 2010 Imvelo Awards.  Read our submission here.

After decades of ill fortune, Mozambique is emerging into a vibrant, welcoming and beautiful country. Henning Mankell, the creator of detective Wallander urges you to go now before it loses its innocence. Read his article here.

Much has transpired on the Mozambique side of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park since it was first proclaimed in November 2001 and it has truly come into its own. It is no longer as some put it "Kruger's stepchild."
 
The Park now has its own modern entrance gate and reception, together with Head Office infrastructure and staff housing at Massingir Dam, and an impressive border post at Giriyondo, north of Letaba. The Park itself offers three different campsites, one at Massingir gate, another overlooking Massingir Dam and the third at Mapai gate near the Limpopo river crossing. Two of PNL's camps also offer self-catering cottages.
 
We, under the banner of Transfrontier Parks Destinations, have developed and operate the following products in the Mozambique sector of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park:

Machampane Wilderness Camp which is situated in Parque Nacional do Limpopo. With five luxury safari tents, this tranquil  camp is on the banks of the Machampane River. Guests get close to nature through morning and evening walks with guides and armed rangers. It's all about seeing the flora and fauna that are never seen while driving. Evenings are spent around a fire in the boma giving guests an opportunity to hear and view the African night. More details:  www.dolimpopo.com

Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park Wilderness Trails  offers various Wilderness Hiking Trail options, 4x4 self-drive Eco-Trails, Canoe Trails and Backpacking & Fishing Trails in Parque Nacional do Limpopo. The Wilderness Hiking and Canoe trails are fully catered and portered, while the 4x4 Eco-Trail and Backing & Fishing Trail is self-catered. All trails are guided. Below is a brief description of the 5 different trails we offer:

Rio Elefantes Canoeing Trail: Spend three days paddling the Rio Elefantes from its confluence with the Shingwedzi, camping wild in rustic bush camps on its tree-lined banks. A cast for tiger fish, a pod of hippo or the sighting of a rare bird will enthrall you on your 70km journey to its confluence with the Limpopo.
Elefantes Gorge Backpacking and Fishing Trail: Camp wild for five days and four nights as you traverse the plateau above the Rio Elefantes gorge, descending to the shores of Massingir dam to fish for Tiger amongst others – the epitome of freedom in an amazing wilderness area.
Palarangala Wilderness Trail: Spend four days and three nights in a remote rustic camp with dome tents and bush ablutions. Daily guided game walks follow the river or explore the Lebombo plateau close to the Kruger border. Located in an area that has been restocked with game in partnership with Kruger, you have every prospect of encountering a wide array of wildlife.
Lebombo Hiking Trail: An unforgettable wildlife experience when you spend four days and three nights hiking through this pristine wilderness area, a perfect setting for game and bird viewing. You carry a day-pack, hike 12 to 15 kms per day and overnight in unfenced rustic bush-camps.
Shingwedzi 4x4 Eco-Trail: Explore the vast wonderland of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park. Our five night and six day guided, self-drive, Shingwedzi 4x4 Eco-Trail offers challenging river crossings and the opportunity to navigate seldom travelled tracks.

We have also recently taken over the management of Covane Community Lodge (re-named Covane Fishing and Safari Lodge).  In partnership with the Canhane Community we are in the process of developing 12 new tent & stone thatched units on the site which is situated on the southern shores of Massingir Dam, part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area. 

In addition two 4-sleeper houseboats and a game-viewing boat have been acquired for operation on the dam, the first of which was launched on Monday 6 September 2010. The other two will be delivered and be operational by mid- October. These are the first houseboats to ever operate on this huge stretch of water that backs into Kruger National Park.  The lodge also provides accommodation in traditional units and camping facilities for adventure travellers, backpackers and those looking for access to Massingir Dam and the surrounding area. Ideal for catch-and-release tiger fishing, as well as boat-based game watching, there are pods of hippo and crocodile to view in the Elefantes Gorge.  Covane is a paradise for bird watchers and a great overnight destination for travellers en-route to the Mozambique coast. More details: www.covanelodge.com
 
There has been a reasonable amount of tourism product development on the Mozambique side of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park. In addition game numbers are increasing and birding is outstanding. Sightings of species such as wild dog, cheetah, rhino and buffalo, whilst not regular, are definitely more frequent. Elephant are regular visitors to the Machampane River in front of the Machampane camp. Lion are often heard at night and their spoor seen the following morning on wilderness walks and on occasion even the lion themselves! Herd sizes generally have increased significantly and the game-product is on an upward trend especially in the areas in which Machampane Camp is located and our Wilderness Trails operate. The Park has a large contingent of ranger staff and is active in anti-poaching programmes.

The first of two Houseboats, built by Lightleys of Knysna, was launched on Massingir Dam on 10 September 2010.  These two houseboats herald the start of a major infrastructure upgrade for Covane Fishing & Safari Lodge.  Visitors will be able to hire the 4-berth houseboats, and take them out for fishing, game viewing and general holiday activities. Houseboats are popular with families, and in particular these the game fishing community is expected to use them for Tiger fishing.  View a slideshow of the boat launch here.

EVENT: Centenary Climb of Sentinal Peak
DATE: 4 September 2010
PLACE: Sentinel Peak

On Monday evening we stayed at Klipkolk Guest House in Northern Cape's Mier area, near the Rietfontein border into Namibia. Our hosts, Hendrik and Getruide Bot run a lovely establishment in an old farmhouse. Hot water in the kitchen came from a "donkey"; geese and peacocks roamed the raked gravel yard and we all moved outside to watch day turn to night. It was an evening reminiscent of my Karoo childhood.

Hendrik is a typical go-getting, middle-class businessman. Irritated by bureaucracy he complained about intransigent government departments who don't pay their bills on time. The three groups of guests all joined him and Getruide around a family table for dinner, joining hands to say grace before the meal was served. There was far too much lovely food - three different meats (including tripe!), vegetables cooked with sugar and cinnamon and roosterkoek. A classic Afrikaner dinner.

The other guests were people whose family had lived in the area for many years before they had moved to Windhoek. Still speaking Afrikaans, they were on a trip down memory lane to see Granny's grave, the old church and farmhouse. And they had found far more information than they expected, a welcoming community and an extraordinary sense of being home.

What no-one discussed, however, was the quintessentially South African dynamic. Hendrik and Getruide are members of the Mier community, people who under apartheid had been dispossessed of their land. After 1994, and helped by a Land Claim settlement in 2002, the Mier community have become the major landowners of the area again. The returning visitors are descendants of the white farmers who had owned the area, and controlled the politics, during most of the 1900's.

But when we sat down to dinner it was obvious that those racial issues of the past did not matter. Values and standards had not changed. The challenges of living in one of the most desolate, forsaken areas of this country remain. And the hospitable natures of the people is unwavering.

I went to bed feeling really good about the road we are travelling.

To contact Klipkolk Guest House phone Hendrik on +27 (0)72 159 6726  or email klipkolk.bott@gmail.com