From the December issue of Kanoo World Traveller:

This camp in the Kalahari Desert is a rarity in the safari world in that it’s run by local bushman communities – its unusual, exclamation-marked name means ‘heart’ in the local language, Nama. Staying in the lodge’s dozen wooden chalets is by no means ‘roughing it’, but you will feel closer to nature here than at some of the grander lodges.

Each room has a deck overlooking a vast saltpan and waterhole, and there are guided walks through the red dunes to learn about the medicinal uses of bush plants. On gamedrives, guests can see leopards, cheetahs and jackals, while the life of local communities is explained in a recreated village.

Make sure you’re not tired come dusk though – one of the biggest draws is the star-spangled night sky, best enjoyed from the observation deck with a chilled juice.

Big thrill: Spotting the rare black-maned lions of Kgalagadi, so-called thanks to their black-tipped, yellow-rooted manes that resemble cheap dye jobs.